Over the years, I’ve worked with a wide range of fabrics in my sewing projects, from delicate chiffon to luxurious silk and sturdy canvas. However, despite all this experience, I still haven’t made myself a proper winter coat.
In recent years, I’ve been drawn to several of Liesl’s coat patterns, like the Lisette for Butterick B6423 and more recently the Chaval Coat. I even have some wool fabric and matching lining in my stash, which shows how serious I am about finally making a long winter coat.
The moment I saw the release of the Yanaka Jacket, I knew it could help me overcome my hesitation when it came to coat-making. And sure enough, I quickly made two of them! Below, I’ll share my experiences with the fabrics I used, some notes on the pattern, and a few styling tips.
For my first version, which I made as a wearable muslin, I went with stretch denim. Normally, I measure a size 4 in Liesl + Co.’s patterns at the bust, but I usually adjust the shoulders to a size 6. For this pattern, though, I decided to stick with a straight size 6 in my usual pattern cup size since these sleeves don’t have the typical shoulder seams where I’d typically make that adjustment. The only change I made was shortening the sleeves by 3/4 inches.
This pattern is simple, with just three main pieces plus facings, so it comes together pretty quickly. I added some extra topstitching along the side gussets to mimic a classic jean jacket look, but I kept the thread color close to the fabric to maintain a slightly more formal appearance. I’m really pleased with how versatile this denim jacket is. It goes well with everything from casual track pants to more polished outfits like a blazer paired with trousers or a pencil skirt. I’m sure this jacket will see a lot of use in my wardrobe.
While working on my coat-making skills, I’ve also been inching closer to attempting my first quilt. I think this Yanaka pattern would make a great foundation for a self-quilted coat. Imagine it—cozy with wool batting! I couldn’t resist pulling out some pre-quilted fabric I bought from Miss Matatabi’s online shop a few years ago. While camouflage isn’t usually my style, I paired it with Liberty of London floral prints to create something unique.
For this version, I made my own bias tape using Liberty lawn fabric and omitted the facings entirely to reduce bulk. I trimmed off the 1/2 inch seam allowance along the collar and front edges where facings would normally attach. I left the extra 1/2 inch along the bottom hem intact.
I thoroughly enjoyed the meditative process of hand-stitching the bias trim with blind stitches. This pre-quilted fabric has a thin layer of fleece backing, so it feels warm and comfortable to wear. Since this coat fits semi-tight, it works perfectly as a mid-layer under a heavier parka during Toronto’s harsh winters. I made the same size for both versions, and I didn’t need to shorten the sleeves on the quilted version.
I highly recommend the Yanaka pattern for anyone looking for a beginner-friendly, unlined coat option or a quick project. For me, this pattern is the gateway to finally tackling a full winter coat.
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