Technical Analysis of Fiber to Printed Finished Fabrics

Clothing, food, clothing and clothing are the first things people must have. The use of printed textiles has become increasingly widespread. Such as cloth, clothes, sheets, curtains, pillowcases, bed enclosures, handkerchiefs, etc., are increasingly favored by people.

First, the classification and nature of fiber

Fibers are mainly divided into natural fibers and synthetic fibers.

1. Human fiber

(1) Plant fibers.

Because its main ingredient is cellulose, it is called cellulose fiber. There are hemp fibers, such as flax, jute, and apocynum. These are mainly plant fibers made of fibers. Manila hemp and agave are mainly used as fibers. Cotton fiber, such as: cotton, kapok.

Cellulose fiber molecular structure contains thousands of hydroxyl (OH), hydroxyl is a hydrophilic group, is the fiber's potential activity center, it is easy to form hydrogen bonds with direct dyes, forming chemical bonds with reactive dyes. So it is suitable for the printing of direct dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes, azo dyes. Seventy percent of the cellulose in the cotton fiber is not dissolved by ordinary solvents (except for regenerated fiber). Although it is not as strong as hemp fiber, its dyeing ability is higher than that of hemp fiber.

(2) Animal fibers.

Because the main components of animal fibers are keratin and fibroin, animal fibers are also called protein fibers. Such as wool, rabbit hair and other animal hair, and the silkworm silk. The main component of animal hair is keratin protein. The main component of silk is silk fibroin. Both of these proteins contain carboxyl (COOH) and amino (NH2) groups, both acidic and basic. When NH3 is treated with acid, it is neutralized and becomes acidic, if the presence of these two polar groups during the alkali treatment is very advantageous for the dyeing. Suitable for acid dyes, reactive dyes, cationic dyes.

In addition to the above two kinds of natural fibers, there are asbestos, metal fiber stone fiber, glass fiber and so on.

2. synthetic fiber

Synthetic fibers are made from petroleum, coal, natural gas and limestone through chemical synthesis and wire drawing. All textiles woven with synthetic fibers are collectively referred to as lun. Such as Kevlar (polyvinyl chloride fiber), Kevlar (polyurethane fiber), polypropylene (polypropylene fiber), polyester (polyester fiber) and so on.

Different synthetic fibers have different printing aptitudes, such as polyester, which have good resistance to the fibers, especially acid resistance, low moisture absorption, and poor adhesion to inks and photosensitive adhesives. Such as with other fiber blend printing printability will be improved. Nylon is polyamide fiber, which has high strength and abrasion resistance, good alkali resistance, and better ink absorption than polyester. Direct dyeing with reactive dyes.

Second, textile screen printing ink

Textiles are classified into water-based inks and oil-based inks according to their morphology, while more water-based inks are used. According to the characteristics of the ink is divided into foam ink, transfer ink, quick solid ink. But the most is divided into dye-based textile screen printing inks, pigment-based textile screen printing inks.

1. Printing and dyeing mechanism

Dye-type textile screen printing ink printing and dyeing mechanism is the ink used in the slurry, but a carrier of pigment, it takes the color material to the textile. After the textile has been puffed and coloured, the pulp has fulfilled its mission and it will be washed from the textile. Like a transport vehicle, the vehicle will return when the goods arrive. Slurry does not participate in any chemical reactions in the printing process and only acts as a uniform disperse dye.

2. Ink composition

(1) Dye

Dyes are divided into natural dyes and synthetic dyes. Natural dyes, including plant dyes such as indigo, are extracted from bluegrass, and the famous phrase “blue for blue but better than blue” comes from this. The algae is extracted from the root of a type II barnyardgrass and is red. Animal dyes such as lice insects, gallnut; mineral dyes are yellow, green wolfberry and so on. Due to the limited natural dyes, synthetic dyes are mostly used. Synthetic dyes are classified into reactive dyes, direct dyes, basic dyes, acid dyes, neutral dyes, and vat dyes. They are briefly described as follows:

Reactive dyes: It contains reactive groups, which can form a covalent bond with an NH, (amino) in animal fibers, an OH (hydroxyl) in plant fibers when dyed, and is therefore dyed firmly. Reactive dyes contain water-soluble groups such as sulfonic acid groups and carboxylic acid groups, so the dyes are water-soluble.

Direct dye: This kind of dye has strong affinity for animal fibers and plant fibers and can be directly printed and dyed without mordant. When dyeing plant fibers, they are printed in neutral or weakly alkaline, and when dyed in animal fibers, they are printed in neutral or weakly acidic.

Acid dyes: These dye molecules contain sulfonic acid groups (a soH), hydroxyl groups (~OH), carboxyl groups (a COOH) and other hydrophilic groups, which can dissolve in water, and are used for protein fibers, nylon (nylon), silk ( Wool Polyester), leather printing and dyeing is better. According to the acidity of the dyeing bath, it can be divided into strong acid dyes, weak acid dyes and acid complex dyes.

Basic dye: The molecule contains amino (NH), which can synthesize salts with carboxyl groups on animal fiber protein molecules without mordant, and can be printed and dyed only under acidic conditions. However, the dyeing of plant fibers must be mordanted with tannic acid before dyeing. Basic dyes are soluble in water and ethanol.

Neutral dyes: These dyes are dyed in neutral or slightly acidic solutions and are mainly suitable for animal fibers.

(2) Slurry

A. Slurry should have the properties: Slurry is only the carrier of the color material, must have good hygroscopicity and easy to wash characteristics, good permeability, good plasticity, a certain degree of adhesion can be evenly attached; printed pattern clear, uniform, to High color quantity; good chemical stability, alkali resistance, acid resistance, viscosity stability; slurry can not have any color.

B. Commonly used slurry

a. Animal slurry: Chitin extracted from shrimp and crab shells.

b. Vegetable pulp: plant I raw rubber, such as Long Jiao (astragalus gum, due to a small amount of Astragalus gum, now replaced by synthetic Long Jiao), gum, tannin; starch and derivatives, such as wheat starch, dextrin, Yuhaotai starch: sodium alginate (extracted from seaweed plants), such as artificial eggs, artificial grapes, and artificial beef sold in the market.

c. Mineral slurry: Bentonite.

d. Chemical slurry: methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, emulsified slurry.

(3) Auxiliaries: Additives that can change certain properties of the ink and improve printability.

A. Active dye commonly used additives

a. Urea: Helps the dye to dissolve and absorb moisture. When steamed, it will expand the fiber and neutralize the acid released when the fiber reacts with the dye to prevent the acid from decomposing and brittle at high temperatures.

b. Baking soda: It is mixed by sodium chloride and ammonium bicarbonate, dissolved and stirred, and precipitated to obtain NaHC0. The basicity of sodium bicarbonate is weaker. If alkali enhancement is required, the sodium bicarbonate is put into the pan and heated and fried. The hydrogen in the molecule escapes to sodium carbonate NaCO. Sodium carbonate, soda ash, is more alkaline than baking soda. The role is to speed up the reaction of fibers and dyes in weak alkalis, and neutralize the acid released by reaction of fibers and dyes to prevent the fibers from becoming brittle.

C. The sodium hexametaphosphate (sodium hexapolyphosphate) molecule is (NaPO.). When sodium alginate is used as a slurry, hard water will form calcium-magnesium and calcium-magnesium precipitates in hard water, which will cause sodium alginate to lose its negative electricity, thus losing the negative repulsive effect of reactive dyes and forming color. Point, color line. The addition of sodium hexametaphosphate avoids the production of precipitated calcium and effectively suppresses the generation of color points and color lines.

(4) Sodium nitrobenzene sulphonate (anti-stain salt S): A weak oxidant that can promote the solubility of the dye and prevent the fiber from being reducible under high temperature conditions.

B. Common auxiliaries of vat dyes

a. Glycerin and alcohol have a certain degree of solubility. Glycerin has a dilute and lubricious effect. The steaming process absorbs water and plays a significant role in coloration. Alcohol has defoaming and moisturizing effects.

b. Carved white powder: scientific name formaldehyde and sodium hyposulfite, from the reduction.

C. Potassium carbonate has a certain hygroscopicity and is used to neutralize alkalinity.

1. Printing and dyeing mechanism

Pigment-type textile screen printing ink, using synthetic resin as the carrier of the pigment, so that the pigment is uniformly dispersed therein, the synthetic resin and the color material after printing are left together on the textile to form a film and become a desired graphic and text.

2. Ink composition

It consists of colorants, emulsifiers, binders and additives.

(1) The color paste is prepared by mixing pigments, water, emulsifiers, and hygroscopic agents and grinding them in a three-roll mill.

(2) The emulsified slurry consists of water, oil, emulsifiers (substances that make two immiscible substances that are mutually soluble) and protective colloids.

(3) Adhesives: Nitrile rubber adhesives, acrylic adhesives, and F-type Aclarin adhesives are commonly used.

Textile printing methods are manual and mechanical, and there are cloth type and run layout. Now we will introduce the process of manually running printing sheets to introduce:

1. Prepare the printing station

The print bed of printed sheets is 2.2m long, 1.8m wide, and 70cm high. It can be made of brick or self-made wood frame with a flat and smooth wood board. The board is covered with blankets, and then there is a workshop for artificial leather. It is prepared with 8 printing tables, between the printing table and the printing table. Pitch 80 ~ 1OOcm, the center of both ends of each printing table to install two fixed plate positioning pin.

2. Cut cloth

A wooden frame with a height of 2.5m and a width of 2.2m was made, and two spikes of about 3cm in length were welded on the beam of the wooden frame. The distance between the two pointed nails is the width of the fabric, and the tarpaulin is started after it is made. First, press the two widths of the cloth on the two spikes on the cloth rack, then measure the length of the sheets, and then pull up to hang the two cloth edges on the two spires. , After full fifty percent discount, first use scissors to cut the lower fold, and then remove all the fabric from the two nails, mouth cut, this method is fast, and the length and width dimensions are the same.

3. Making a printing plate

Produce conventional plates by screen printing. The screen mesh used is 200 mesh/cm nylon or polyester mesh, and the aluminum alloy mesh frame that is light and solvent resistant is preferred.

4. Printing

(1) Textile positioning: The positioning of textiles is performed using three-point positioning. According to the pin on the printing table as the center, according to the size of the bed sheet, the center point is respectively folded from both ends of the width, and then the gauge distance is set on the printing table. On the printing table, take the pin as the center and measure the width of the bed sheet to both sides. Mark the gauge line or fix the two small pieces of paper about 120g with tape to set the same rules in the width direction. .

(2) Brush platform glue: Taiwan version of the glue has water-based Taiwan version of the plastic, wax Taiwan version of the plastic, resin Taiwan version of the plastic, and the resin is the best version of Taiwanese version of the plastic. Brush the on-board version of the glue with a brush of wool and evenly brush it on the artificial table of the printing table.

(3) Making bed sheets: The two men stretched the corners of the sheets respectively, laying the textiles on the printing table in a smooth manner.

(4) Printing: Two people lift up the printing plate, install the pin holes at the two ends of the printing plate on the positioning pins at the two ends of the printing table, and evenly put the ink on the printing plate. Two people lift up the squeegee and one end from the printing plate at the same time. Scraping to the other end, the two people must use the same force and the speed should be the same. According to this method, the first color is printed on each of the eight printing tables, and then the second, third and fourth are printed on each of the eight printing stations. Five, six, seven, and eight colors. If there are many people, a color version for every two people can be printed in one color at a time.

5. Postpress

After the multi-colours are finished, tear the sheets carefully and use a bamboo rod to propel them into the drying room for drying. The drying temperature and time of the pigments used for different fibers are also different. For example, chemical fibers use organic pigments and are dried at 130-150° C. for 3 to 10 minutes. In order to be dyed firmly and washable, conditions should be steamed. Steaming is done by blowing steam into the sheets, allowing the fibers to swell, allowing the dye to penetrate the interior of the textile and fix it completely. Different fibers are used for printing, the coloring materials are different, and the temperature and time during steaming are different. For cotton fibers, direct dye printing is used. The steaming temperature is 98 to 100% and the time is 45 to 50 minutes. Acid dye temperature for nylon 100 ~ 1O5oC, time 30 ~ 40 minutes.

The steamed or dried sheets should be washed with water, washed with paste and free color. Remove the floating color, the sheets are soft and feel good.

6. Classification test

Clean the surface of the product, the pattern is clear, overprinting accurate products, folded packaging storage, blank blanking, severe overprinting is not allowed, paste version, clarity is not enough to pick out, according to defective products.

The above describes the manual running layout printing. Conditional, the printing plate does not need to be lifted manually. The plate slides on the track. After the printing is completed, it is not necessary to use a bamboo pole to pull into the drying room. Instead, the textile is clamped with iron clamps, and the wire is slid into the drying room for drying.

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